Some time ago, aboard The Empire Builder, I promised a second installment of my deep-covid-era train journeys. Here it is.
I left Emeryville, California, aboard the “California Zephyr” on 6 February 2021. This extraordinary train passed over the mountains from California into Nevada and Utah, through Colorado and Nebraska, then Iowa, and then into Illinois, for the home stretch into the city of Chicago.
Covering 3,924 kilometres (2,438 miles) the Zephyr is Amtrak's longest and —from what I could tell— also the network's busiest and most celebrated route.
Fifty-one hours and twenty-one minutes left me ample time to absorb the landscape, to see and to dream. Derived from the Greek Zephyros and Latin Zephyrus, Zephyr is associated with the west, and has come to mean a soft and gentle breeze.
My selection of photographs from the journey are complemented by two pieces of music composed and performed by the Toronto musician (and a friend of mine) Joey Gaitanis. If I’m not mistaken, this music happened during covid’s heights, just like my train journey.
In generously allowing me access to a cache of his recordings, Joey said simply: pick whatever resonates, whatever gives you pleasure. You gotta like his style, even if it was hard to choose.
In thinking over the landscape through which I had moved, I was drawn to Joey's “Breathe” and “Night Shift.” Listening to the pieces, I found myself rearranging my photographs, pausing, changing things around, playing with just when and how the images would appear, enjoying how they seemed to fuse with the guitar, with Joey’s voice.
We both hope you’ll enjoy the sonic and visual ride on the gentle Zephyr, via this link, Zephyr. all aboard the California Zephyr
* music by Joey Gaitanis. https://www.youtube.com/@joeygaitanis
* photographs by Kenneth Mills
Ken, Joey, my pleasure and privilege. For the past couple years my retirement gig has been as a reservist with FEMA's Disaster Survivor Assistance (DSA) cadre. It's taken me to forgotten or little-known corners of the republic in Texas, Louisiana, Alabama, California and now Maui, where I've encountered beautiful humanity and enchanting music that had eluded my ears heretofore. Joey, I look forward to checking out your work when I demobilize here. And Ken, your experiment has gotten me reflecting on time in Monterey County earlier this year toiling in the shadow of Steinbeck, Kerouac and Henry Miller. Inspiration as well for a collaboration with my compa Omar Sosa, Cuban pianist, composer and bandleader extraordinario. Meanwhile, be well.
Rode the Zephyr in winter many years ago albeit with different if kindred set of eyes and soundtrack. How memory.speaks, entwines and sings across time and space. Thanks to both you gentlemen, collaboration at its artful best.
Need to review on a screen bigger than my phone, here where California's zephyrs may be said to originate, but where fiercer winds and the beguiling spirit of capitalism have since the 1820s, and most recently, conspired to lay waste to Maui's own resilient aboriginal zephyr spirit.